Saturday, 28 September 2013

Dolly Rockers 1968


        
It's 1968 and rocker gear is back on the rave scene! Here are some of the rocking new outfits to be seen around!

Left: Leather maxi skirt 22½ gns., and jacket, 31 gns., from Tracy, 71 New Bond Street, London, W.1. Silk scarf by Liberty, 2 gns. Boots by Elliotts, 14 gns. Glasses by 47 West at Corocraft, 35s.  Right: Maxi culotte suit by John Stephen, 40 gns. Sweater by Fantasia, 63s. Boots by Elliotts, 13 gns. Beret by Kangol, 10s. 6d. The boy? Larry Smith of the Bonzo Dog Doo'Dah Band in his own rocker gear. The bike? A 500 c.c. Triumph.

                    Three piece jersey suit, £ 3 19s. 6d. by Downtown Boutique, Kangol beret, 10s. 6d.




Beige and tan leather suit from John Stephen, 29 gns. Sweater in beige by Fantasia, 63s. Leather gloves by Dents, 45s. 11d. Cream beret by Kangol, 10s. 6d. Tinted glasses by 47 West at Corocraft, 35s.




Leather coat from John Stephen, 35 gns.  Leather skirt from Lewis Separates, £5 19s. 6d. Sweater by Fantasia, 63s. Silk scarf by Liberty, 2 gns. Beret by Kangol, 10s. 6d. Glasses by 47 West at Corocraft, 35s. Boots by Elliotts, 89s. 11d



Right: Beige gaberdine trousers by Alan Rodin, 3gns. Jacket in waterproof gaberdine by Valstar, £5 19s. 6d. Black sweater by Fantasia, 65s. Silk scarf by Liberty, 2gns. Chukka boots in tan and pink leather by Roland Keith, 99s. 11d. Black leather jacket at the Separates Centre, 13½ gns. Coffee coloured knit sweater by John Craig, approx, 69s. 11d. Corduroy jeans by Lee Cooper, 38s. 6d. Black leather boots by Anello and Davide, 8gns. Gloves by Dents, 45s. 11d. Silk square by Liberty, 2gns.




Waistcoat suit in brown leather at Tracy, 71 New Bond Street, London, W.1, 22½ gns. Polo neck sweater by Fantasia, 63s. Silk scarf in Black, pink and green at Liberty, 2gns.


                                                IMAGE CREDIT
All images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE magazine May 1968. Fashions by Lee, Photographs by P.L. James.

                       

Monday, 23 September 2013

Knickerbocker Glory: Jackie Magazine 1970




We've had almost every other shape of trouser imaginable - skintight trews, cigarette slacks, wide and narrow bellbottoms etc. etc...and now it's time for the daddy-of-'em-all-KNICKERBOCKERS-to step back into fashion.

















                                                                     

                                                                            STOCKISTS
Miss Impact suit from all Miss Janet branches. More information from Miss Impact, 50 Mortimer St, London, W.1.;  Erica Budd sweater from Girl, Oxford St, London W.1.;  Chic Boutique, 96 High St, Bromley, Kent and 67 North Street, Guildford, Surrey. Sharcleod knickerbockers from Pacesetters, 25 Rose Street, Edinburgh. Erica Budd suit from Debenham & Freebody, Wigmore St, London, W.1.; Dolcis Boots by mail order from Dolcis, 350 Oxford St, London, W.1. Extra 3s 6d for post and pack. Lilly & Skinner boots from Lilly & Skinner, 360 Oxford St, London, W.1 and branches. Mail order 3s 6d extra; Pull on hats from the Stitch Place Mail Order, 87 Regent St, London, W.1 plus 1s 6d p&p.


                                                                   
                                                                       IMAGE CREDITS
      All images scanned by Sweet Jane, originally published in JACKIE, 5th September 1970. Artist uncredited.

Friday, 20 September 2013

Rave Fashion Looks 1968 - Biba, Ossie Clark, Ayton and Rhodes, Art Galore, I Was Lord Kitchener's Thing




Before the sunshine goes and the annual dragging out of last year's woolies starts, RAVE takes a long lingering look at some of the scene-stealing fashions that the summer of 68 will be remembered for. Basically, there were three distinct styles: Long, cool and very feminine were the crêpes and laces reminiscent of something Auntie used to wear. Tight bodiced, colourful and wild were the gypsy looks that even endeared an off-the-peg outfit to second-hand dressed Julie Driscoll! Fringed and casual, heads banded in scarves and suede bands were the Indian scout looks which also invaded our streets.



Red, yellow and black flamenco dress £3 19s. 6d. by Biba, 19-21 Kensington Church Street, London W.8. Catalogue available. Large hooped dangling earrings by Corocraft, 15s. 6d.




Black crêpe dress with white frilled sleeves, a Young Junior at Blanes, 6 gns. Coin necklace by Paul Stephens, 19s 6d. Ballet shoes by Dolcis, 29s. 11d. Small hooped earrings by Paul Stephens, 7s. 11d.




Dicel lipstick-patterned trousers by Ayton and Rhodes 9gns. at Fulham Road Clothes Shop, 160, Fulham Road, London S.W.10. Tricel crêpe blouse in white by Celia Mortimer, 3 gns. Red, real snakeskin waistcoat by Ossie Clark, 6gns.




White crêpe culotte suit by Art Galore, £6 12s 6d. Soft straw hat at Biba 35s. Long satin scarf tied round hat at Biba, 1 gn. Gilt bangles by Corocraft 25s. each.




White crêpe dress with fringed bodice by Susan Barry, £5 9s. 6d. High boots called 'Lancer' by Norvic, 7 gns. Apache feathered hat by I Was Lord Kitchener's Thing, 59s. 6d. Bead bracelet by Paul Stephens, 14s. 6d.

                                                                  IMAGE CREDITS
All images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE August 1968. Photographs by Chris Holland.
                                      

Saturday, 14 September 2013

Belt On - Pull In - Curve Out: Illustrations by Antonio 1967



I've previously posted some examples of these illustrations by Antonio Lopez here on the Sweet Jane blog, which I had scanned from a book called Lifestyle Illustration of the 60s. However, I have since acquired a copy of the very first issue of Intro magazine, which is where they were originally published in september of 1967. I had been searching for this particular issue for a long time, there just doesn't seem to be that many of them in circulation, which is not too surprising really because it is 46 years old this month afterall! But, I have to say it was definitely worth the wait and every penny that it cost to finally see Antonio's work as it was intended to be seen, the illustrations are absolutely amazing!  They're spread over three double pages measuring 22"x 17½" each...now I want you to take a moment to think about those dimensions, we're talking 'poster size' here! Infact, I think I will get some professional copies made and have them framed eventually, because as much as I admire fashion photography 'fashion illustration' has always been my first love, and these images are such superb examples of a time when it was still in its glory days, before photography surpassed it and became the more widely used medium of the two. The magazine is too large to fit onto my usually trustworthy flatbed scanner and although I've done my best, it's impossible to truly do them justice under the circumstances! In reality they are far more vibrant, but if you click on each individual image you will at least be able to view a larger version of the work. Alternatively, if you happen to live in the London area or have plans to visit the city sometime over the next two months, you may perhaps be lucky enough to view the real thing thanks to designer Roland Mouret (also a long time admirer of Antonio's work) who, in conjunction with East of Mayfair will be hosting a special selling exhibition including previously unseen works by the legendary fashion illustrator, in celebration of what would have been his 70th birth year. The exhibition which opens today, takes place at the Roland Mouret concept store house, 8 Carlos Place, London W.1. and runs through to the 20th of october 2013. The celebration doesn't end there, M.A.C have also launched a limited edition range of cosmetics this month inspired by Lopez. You can view the range and a video clip of the artist at work here.




                                                BELT ON - PULL IN - CURVE OUT
Belting into fashion - the cinched in waist. You've been waiting for this since skinny sweaters stretched to dresses and tenty shapes narrowed to the body. Big, beautiful belts, buckled or buttoned, clinch the move to femininity with the greatest look to arrive since the birth of the mini skirt.


Left to right: Deep cummerbund - the cinched-in tent, £4 19s 11s., sizes 10-16, by Present Trend for The Cobbler Club Postal Boutique. Narrow chain links - wide pleats accentuate shape, 9½ gns. Turquoise, green or navy, 10-14, Polly Peck. Numeral earrings, 2gns., from Paris House. Soft self belt-circles waist naturally; high-collared tucked bodice. Other colours, green , beige, pink, orange, brown, 10-16, £6 19s 6d.



From left to right: Rocker studs revived on belts. Separates dress - pinch-stitched skirt; narrow knitted top. Orange or beige knit with brown flannel, 7½ gns., 10-14, Ricki Reed. Suede gloves, 42s. 6d., Kir waist-cinched - military coat, with stiff necked collar; tunic pockets. Silver buttons trim fold of back pleat. Three shades of brown, 13½ gns., 35-38 length. Elgee gloves, nylon 12s. 6d., Kir. Metal buckled coat/jacket - belt pulled tight; straight trousers, new turn-ups. 15½ gns., 10-14, Elgee.  Earrings, 2gns., Paris House. Broad belt - tight fit. Flare on chunky tweed coat; slit pockets; revers, 10½ gns., 10-14, Sidwall Earrings 15s. 6d. Corocraft.




Wide sash (far left) - new shape. Flared spotted nylon in royal, pale blue, emerald or red. Sizes 10-14 by Gay Girl, 99s 11d. Double buckles (left) - the big belt. Cinched in Soft wool in mustard/green or green/red, red/black. Sizes 8-16, Mornessa, 8½gns.



                                                                      IMAGE CREDITS
All images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from Intro Issue No.1 September 23rd 1967. Illustrations by Antonio Lopez.

                                                                                   
                                                                                  LINKS
The Official Cathee Dahmen tribute blog (supermodel, muse and friend of Antonio Lopez) can be found here.
The official website for the Antonio Lopez book - Antonio: Fashion, Art, Sex, Disco (published september 2012) can be found here
For those of you who can't make it to the exhibition, some examples of the work on display can be viewed on the East of Mayfair online art gallery here.


Wednesday, 11 September 2013

Which Vicky Are You? 1970



 


                                             
                                            VICKY VAUGHN or VICKY PETITE
Red and white join the navy and see the world. Dacron polyester/cotton canvas is smasheroo solo, or comes on strong with skinny-stripe cotton knit. Left, Vicky Vaughan hits the deck with the slinky scarved shirt, the lean little skim, the pleat-skirt undershirt. 5-15. Right, Vicky Petite takes shore leave in the school kid middy, the clashy culotte dress, the scarved a-liner. 3-13. Each about 16.00, slightly higher in the west. At these stores and their branches and other fine stores: Bloomingdale's, New York; Carson Pirie Scott, Chicago; J.L. Hudson, Detroit; Foley's, Houston; L.S. Ayres, Indianapolis; Burdine's, Miami. Or write to R & M Kaufmann, Inc, 1400 Broadway, New York 10018.


                                                                    IMAGE CREDIT
             Image and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from Seventeen magazine April 1970.


               

Monday, 9 September 2013

Should A Proper Young Woman Of Impeccable Upbringing Wear An Ankle Bracelet?







Should a proper young woman of impeccable upbringing wear an ankle bracelet....

Shatter the cliche that only ladies of dubious reputation wear ankle bracelets. Erase the image of intertwined hearts worn with bobbysocks and loafers.With mini skirts baring lots of leg, midi skirts taking the Edwardian view of the ankle, anklets couldn't be more timely. Lynn wears six. More timid girls need wear but one at a time. The first five dainty ankle bracelets (left to right) are from Kim Craftsman, the sixth blue enamel one is by Bagatelles. Sold at Henri Bendel, N.Y.C. 10. These were made just for eye.


                                                                 IMAGE CREDIT
Image and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from EYE April 1968. Jumpsuit from Charlie's Girls. Photograph by Richard Davis.

Saturday, 7 September 2013

Vintage Advert: Wippette Sportswear - Seventeen 1967




                                                                 
                                                                             WIPPETTE
                                                   EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED

Valrie likes her brim pulled down. Karen flips for the tortoise chains on her jumper. Leslie pats the velvet collar on her mini-chesterfield. Philips can't get over her velvet vest and short-cut pants. Darby feels like a Kennedy in her hacking jacket. They all dig Wippetry - hats, bags and opaque tights. And everyone must have "The Sweater" in soft lambswool. Everything in 100% wool plaid or tortoise velveteen. From $14 for skirts to $40 for the mini-coat - at the important stores. Or write to Dept. T, Wippette Sportswear, 1407 Broadway, New York.


                                                                                  IMAGE CREDIT
Image and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from SEVENTEEN September 1967, Wippette Sportswear designed by Patti Cappalli, illustration by Abbe.


Friday, 6 September 2013

Vogue 1965: Jean Varon, Jane & Jane, Foale & Tuffin, Harriet





Finest black organdie shift,  loose fitting, boldly squared in gold, worn over a tiny culotte dress in black tricel jersey. By Jean Varon, 14gns., from Lucinda Byre, Liverpool; Googl-eye, Cooper House, Luddendenfoot, Halifax; Henry Burger's ground floor boutique, Leeds.



Sleeveless chiffon dress in tigerish striped print, brown and ginger. By Jane & Jane, in two lengths, long 35½ guineas, and short, 26½ guineas. Available from Chie of Hampstead, 74 Heath Street, N.W.3; Trend, Guildford; and Cyril Livingstone, Leeds.



Brilliantly patterned red wool, for a sleeveless V-necked wrapover dress; 18 guineas from Harriet, 8 Gregory Place, W.8. Wendy Lewis who runs this very small boutique, does her own designing and adds to her collection every fortnight. She also has a boutique selling handbags, presents and dresses at Andre Bernard's salon, 10A Old Bond Street.



Extra long coat,  finger-tip length, worn here with cigarette trousers (alternative is a very short flared skirt). Coat has corduroy-covered back yoke and high button up collar. In navy blue with royal; camel with black; or maroon with yellow. At the Foale & Tuffin boutique, 1 Marlborough Court, W.1; Trend, Chester. Coat, 14 gns., skirt 5½ gn.


                                                                IMAGE CREDITS
 All images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from VOGUE, October 1 1965. Photographer: Peter Mullett.

Thursday, 5 September 2013

Dandy Fashion: Mr Fish of Clifford Street 1967




Pink pin-striped white pique double-breasted jacket 25 gns, pink poplin polo-neck shirt 6 gns, pink cotton trousers 11 gns; all by Mr Fish, Clifford street W1; White silk hat by Herbert Johnson, 6 gns to order at Herbert Johnson, New Bond Street; and white leather moccasins 8 gns at The Chelsea Cobbler, Draycott Avenue, SW3. 


                                                         IMAGE CREDITS & LINKS
Image and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from QUEEN November 8th 1967, photograph by John Hedgecoe. Model Jacques Dehornois. Read about the life & work of photographer John Hedgecoe (24 March 1932-3 June 2010) here, discover a selection of his photography manuals & books here. The John Hedgecoe archive is exclusively represented by Topfoto.co.uk,  Further details about the photographer's archive can be found here.

Wednesday, 4 September 2013

Jean Muir: Fringe Benefits 1969



'By Jean Muir' is the pay-off line for a clear and cogent fashion philosophy. Her clothes for day are clean-cut, simple; they're young for the young, youthful but not juvenile for a grown-up woman. For evening the Jean Muir look is extravagant and discreet at one in the same time.


Silk fringing - Three deep bands of it, round the trouser legs of an all-in-one suit, 62gns. In neatly- patterned chiffon, buttoned all down the front, shaped with an Empire seam. The matching stole, deeply fringed, is tied round the head. Jean Muir at Fortnum & Mason, Piccadilly, W1.




Small-print chiffon Jean Muir evening dress with two deep rows of silk fringe round the hem and on the long, long scarf. It buttons down the front, has long transparent sleeves with buttoned cuffs; £54 1s. 6d. Shiny flesh-coloured tights £1 15s. by Berkshire, also at Fortnum's. Brown crepe evening pumps, 5 gns, with brown tassels, £1 10s; at Bally, Kings Road, SW3.


                                                                    IMAGE CREDITS
All images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from Queen April 1969. Model Kellie Wilson, Photographer: Clive Arrowsmith.

Monday, 2 September 2013

The Art Of The Affair 1969 - Illustrated by Graham Percy


A six page feature by Donald Wiedenman, originally published in Queen, reminiscing about the lost art of the so called 'Proper Affaire' which had become almost obsolete in the new permissive 60s society. However, in its heyday the customary etiquette appears to have included a weekend stay at the Ritz (booked in advance using a fictitious name) followed by the consumption of copious amounts of champagne, Tia Maria and vodka martinis while luxuriating in Badedas bubble-baths, shopping for trinkets and clothes in Bond Street (a Hermès scarf & Gucci bag for the lady, a heavily-beaded patchwork waistcoat from Mr Fish for the Gentleman) and a quick trip to the Kensington Antique market resulting in the purchase of matching pink crushed velvet trouser suits which they apparently will never wear but can't resist nonetheless. Over the weekend, other pursuits involve browsing in the Gentleman's favourite salacious bookshop in Soho, tickets to see the musical Hair, some light gambling and later, fine dining and dancing at Annabel's in Berkeley Square. Of course, all of this activity is punctuated with the obligatory phone calls to their 'nearest and dearest' before the return back home on Monday, inspite of these necessary interruptions they do however manage to fit in a final shopping spree before they go their separate way, this time resulting in the purchase of 'tokens of affection' for each other as a memento.  It's quite an intimately detailed article, obviously based on the experiences of someone that the author knew 'well' but personally speaking, apart from the account of the visit to Mr Fish and the Kensington Antique Market,  I was far more taken with the fantastic illustrations by Graham Percy.



                                                                    DOING IT IN STYLE
Without a doubt, there is only one hotel to stay in for a really old-fashioned, slightly camp Proper Affaire, and that is the Ritz. Amidst, mirrors, gilt, and fading elegance, the Ritz offers the best service, the most discreet staff, the biggest bathtubs, and the most intriguing atmosphere - you can still actually meet behind the aspidistra. The Savoy, sad to report, is too old-fashioned (even for an old-fashioned affaire) and Claridges is full of too many politicians, bodyguards, and curious clerks. The Dorchester is the second choice, but the lobby is unfortunately always full of famous people and hovering photographers, and if the Lady or Gentleman is married, this is to be avoided at all costs.





























It is still early and the small dance-floor is not yet crowded. The Gentleman asks the 'disc dolly' (a pretty girl named Hildey) to play something from Un Homme Et Une Femme, which she does. They go back to their seat's when the latest Rolling Stones single is played, because a Gentleman and a Lady do not dance to that kind of music.



                                             
                                                       
                                              IMAGE CREDITS
All images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from QUEEN magazine October 1969. Illustrations by Graham Percy for an original article by Donald Wiedenman.

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